Big Buddhas & Muslim Weddings.....

Okay Im past Phuket,and on Ko Phi Phi now. Lets see.... I last left off as we were leaving Surabaya after two pretty insane last days. The next day was not so good. After buying train tickets to Yogjakarta (Yogja) Halims friends deceide to drive instead. So we had to take the tickets back and rushed to the bike shop to meet his crew. 6 or 7 of us piled into a fairly small car for what we thought would be an 5-6 hour car ride. We left around 3 and got there around 12. Nuff said. Traffic, food and prayer stops we finally made it. The reason Halim took us was so he could go to a wedding and we could go to Borobudur. It worked out. After giving Matt and I our own room, he woke us at 7 to give us a ride to the bus station too. Supercoolguy. The bus ride to Borobudur was long, hot, and surreal. The bus driver had no speedometer and a hook and latch held most of the doors closed. The whole time i was sitting on some weird tank that was getting really hot.


Borobudur was amazing though. A huge monument to Buddha in a land dominated by Muslims. Apparently its the largest Buddhist monument in Indonesia, maybe the world.(?)As with any tourist spot in Indo we were of course bombarded by people selling everthing. Evertyhing.
Each layer of the huge stone monument was surrounded by Bodhisatvas and story boards. After walking around each layer we made it to the top. Killer view, but way too many people. I think that we had more pictures taken with us than i took myself. We were freaking celebrities at the top. People were even trying to sneak pictures with us in them. Pretty funny. The way down was just as bad. The exit of the park was of course a maze of shops with people selling more stuff. You guys getting the picture yet. After taking a tuk-tuk to the bus stop we somehow found our bus, got better seats and were dropped off at a completley different station. Hmmm. Time to call Halim.

He told us to meet him downtown at some hotel, he found us eventually and we were whisked off back to the hotel, for one of the most surreal moments of my life. He insisted that we attened his friends wedding. Besides not knowing anyone, having no decent clothes or gifts, it was a traditonal Javanese Muslim wedding. Dressed in my finest backpacker clothes we entered the large university auditorium blaring traditonal gamalon music.
People were dressed in their finest traditional attire and food was everywhere. The tradition goes that you enter, get in line, shake hands with about 8 people , eat and leave. Now that i think of it it reminded me alot of my freind Russsels funeral. So we did just that. Stood in line, the only "bules" within a kilometer distance and walked up shook the bride and grooms parents hands and also the bride and groom. But when i say shake its not what you think , its more of a two handed light light brush of fingertips by one another. Definetly one of the stranger moments of my life. The whole time some guy is announcing in Bahasa and Javanese dialects all the invities to the party. Next was food, a feast fit for Kings & Queens , cliche but true. We ate with the commoners, the whole time just waiting to get kicked/dragged out. I mean the bride and groom looked right into our eyes having no idea who we were and still smiled! Enough about the wedding though, after about one hour, it was time to go, Halim was leaving and we were staying. The first time in quite a while with no one to help us out.


Heres where it gets weird. j/k. That night we wandered the Yogja strip and eventually ended up passsing out 5 mins into "The Beach".
The next day we had the bright idea to go the beach. Another bus ride from hell, the guy stopped for anyone who waved. Long ride, and ripped off as we would find out on the way back. The beach itself wasnt too bad it was just windy as hell and the water was treacherous. Ate some noodles and drank a coconut only to turn right arond and go back to town. The rest of the day was spent looking for Batik shirts, which we eventually found. They are actually quite nice designs, Matt sure loves his. Seeing the batik paintings and processes to make them were pretty cool as well. The rest of our evening was consumed with a Javanese Puppet show, which was intersting and extremely boring all at the same time.
After leaving the show Matt and I were talking in asinine voices when he broke his sandal, right in front of the sandal guy. Matt really had no leverage on the situation as you can imagine, so he bought his second pair of sandals on the trip, but not his last. No bargining that time. My rainbows are still rockin. Back to the bed only to wake and leav to Bandung in the morining.


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For Good People Who hate Bad News

Once again i have been informed of a sad passing, unfortunatley this one very close to home. A very close family friend passed away this today. May you Rest in Peace as they say, or as others say "may your death be a pleasant one" Greg Illum. With the utmost resepect. - Jesse

And another, Rhoda, She always feel asleep when i was there but she was good fun none the less. - Jesse

Go Here Now!!!

http://www.fmft.net/archives/BBC_NEWS.htm

Surabaya (updated but not finished!)

Hey everyone! Heres a short little synopsis of whats been going on! Currently im In Kuala Lumpor, Malaysia, its pretty awesome here , nice mix between Jakarta and SIngapore. Not too Dirty, Not to clean. Plus alot of people speak english. My last week in Java went from amazing to complete crap. When we arrived and meet up with Halim things were excellent. He took us all over town got our train tickets and feed us! The next day he even got our plane tickets changed for free so we could go with him to Yogja the next week. Excellent. His house was awesome and they let us stay in their childrens room. Two little girls who were both cute and feirce. Well some Sihk has to use the only computer in the Hostel ill finish later ... ( as i hesitently back away form the computer while frowning) grrrrrrrrr.....Well Now im somewhere completley differnt (Panang) waiting for a bus to Phuket,Thailand. Back to Surabaya.

The next few days in Surabaya were complete pampering. Halim and Donna took such good care of us! Most fo the days were spent in traffic, huge malls (Super Malls even)and excelltne cafes. Very reminiscent of America ehh?
We took some really cool bike rides though. One through the "Marine Zone" where we saw 50 Marines jogging in unison. We also went by lots of buring trash piles with people digging in them for stuff. The other bike ride was a Night Ride. "Nightriders" Halim called it. It was pretty cool, even though Halim took a little spill right by his house. It only be cause he was kind enough to let us ride the good bikes. Probably the best part of Surabaya. We also had luch with Donnas Parents, very kind folk. Halim is an Architect so we often went to his projects, which were quite intereesting. The hierarchy here is internesting. The Chinese rule buisenss in Asia. The locals are the workers. Its a strange dichotomy.

Okay now to the good stuff. Matts gonna hate me for this paragragh. Besides having our first fight in a mall (Aww how cute). He threated to leave in a random burst of excitment. (Read - Lame,Petty, Squable over Matts constant criticism of himnself and others)It was cute. The other things was his constant babbleing over his ex-girlfriends (More on her later)emails. Overly analyzing certain words an phrasings. AAAAHHHHHH. That was annoying.

The last few days were pretty cool besides all the crap in the last paragraph,
we went to a cigarrette factory. Although most of the smokes in Indo are "kretek" or clove smokes. Pretty good actually and really cheap. There a picture of Matt trying to look sad in hios little cart they had at the museum for people tp pretend they were poor. Pretty fucked up. Also a great book entitled "Smoking is Good For You". The last two night we went out. Going out with Halim is a pretty fun expereince. Beside him not letting us pay, he took us to some prety upscale bars. The first being Java Jimmy's in some fancy hotel . There was a really lame cover band and it was pretty dead.

Next came the best bar experience ever. "Kowloon" It means 9 Dragons in Mandarin. We arrive to a shady parking lot full of hookers and sketchy Chinese guys . The experience was straight out of a movie. Walked in right passed secrutiy. Moving quickly in to a huge mostly empty dance hall playing the loudet techo ive ever heard. Pace quickens as we are ushered into the back room. Theres a live band very similar to the 5,6,7,8's, but Chinese, playing awesome rock'n roll covers as we step up to the bar. Glasses are poured, tahu & tempeh are quickly shoved in front of us. I finally take a momonet to absorb the surrroundings. I notice that there are many, many very young Chinese girls sitting around. Then i see some duck back into another back room, with older men. So shady. We were in the coolest bar in town. Hands down. Talk a bout a cultural experience. Words cant describe the experience there. We sat for about one hour jsut sitting and watching the band and the obviouos brothel happening. Shit was hilariuous.

The last night was just as interesting. We went to a bar called Colors for the FHM Sexiest ladies party. HAving seen posters everywhere in Asia we figured , why not. Hob-nob with the sexiest ladies in the World. Sweet. We get there and it costs 10$ to get in and its totally packed. We walk in, are handed smokes, a condom, and drink tickets.
Get our free beer and sit next to the stage. What ensued was basically a pep-rally with less clothes. A bunch of girls came out danced in unison (think flygirls) and then poured whiskey in screaming males mouths. Pretty disgusting actually.

Well the bus is going to come to take me to Phuket, Gotta go. I swear ill catch up on this thing. I know no one reading this thing knows Autumn Estes, but i just found out some old bad news thats new to me ={ RIP Autumn.

Pics.Pics.Pics.

My last full day in Bali was spent feeling like utter shit wandering up and down the Gangs (read - alley) and lying and moaning on the beach wanting to vomit on everything adn anything. Of course this was due to staying up all night on my birthday, which ive decided matt will narrarate soon. The last night we took Dwi, Inga, and the boys out to dinner at Pizza hut again. Woke at 3:30 am to catch our bus to ferry to train ride to Surabaya. Waking was hell as was the bus ride. The seats all rattled as the driver constantly honked and speed on Balis horrible roads. It was beautiful though. The Ferry ride was quite enjoyable and we even meet a nice person named Michala who showed us were the VIP room was .
Thanks to her we had a couch , TV,and AC for the hour we spent waiting. The trains over here are quite nice much beter than the Amtrack back home and cheaper. Its really the only way to travel in Java. Even though the in the picture, Matt looks half-dead. Food, service comfort and A/C. Arriving at the trains station is a whole other story. A live band, our freind doing Kareoke and us looking for "a guy in a yellow oakley shirt". More to Come - Z

More Pics No words

Just like all the Japanese people that were at the Barong dance, had to do the Peas-u in front of the Dragon. Dance was pretty cool, so was the rest of the day, we hung out at Dwis workshop where Matt pretended to be a Zombie and eat childrens brains, to the other water temple (pics), to the the art center of Ubud. The previuos day was spent meandering around Kuta and writes these damn things. But the next day was my B-day which ill write about soon although i dont really remember it. J/k








Note: I added some more pics in other blogs and put up a link to my cousin jessicas blog as well- Z

Pictures (Text unedited) that's all you really want anyway.

Okay I found a really fast internet connection hear in Singapore,woohhoo so here's a bunch of pick from Bali!

alright the last blog was a Monday so these pics and word are form a Tuesday! Dwi took the motorbike back first thing. Matts privileges were cut. There's even more to that story, but "I aint one to gossip so you aint heard that form me!". Off to Singaraja, a big town on the opposite side of Bali from Denpasar. First stop is to one of Dwis jobsites where Matt and I proceed to blare annoying rock music much to the annoyance of the surrounding cars.

Next is off to Turtle Island, which is home to a Sea turtle sanctuary. (Read - big area for exploiting turtles and getting money from tourists) It was interesting, the guy in the picture kept trying to get us to hold them. There were some huge turtles there and bunch of little ones in a separate area, which were pretty damn cute.

next stop Monkey Temple (Sanjeh Lot). The parking lot alone was full of these cute little mischievous running around and fucking all over the place. We pay , while Dwi does not as a lady follows us the whole time. Monkey s are everywhere eating trash and just being monkeys. I hold my stuff pretty tight just in case the monkeys like my stuff. A little side route takes us to a huge tree filled with hanging bats.


My childish desires look around for a rock, but of course I think better. Instead of dogs eating the offerings its the monkeys at this places. As we leave the lady that had been following us the whole time made us look at her shop. As we leave we tease a monkey with a solak and head up the mountain.

Stop at a little hillside village market and buy some strawberries. Even saw some apples imported form Washington! Also a bunch of cute little bunnies right next to the warung that sells rabbit sate.

Back in the car and of through the hills to another lakeside temple. It was nice. There were some people inside the grounds trying to get people to take pictures with a python, a iguana, and a thing they called a mongoose. I refuse to believe it was a mongoose. Onward to Singaraja, just as I was asking Dwi if people just built house on the side of the road or paid for the land, one of the countless motorbikes that had been passing us recklessly all day hit our car. They clipped the front of Dwis car and flipped with their bike in the air. Dwi stopped I jumped out to make sure they were okay. It reeked of gas. They got up and we pulled the bike off the road. Suddenly we were surrounded by all local people and there was much comotion Indonesian. Matt and I just staring at each other . While Dwi explained what happened. After a little debate we hoped back in the car and had a very sobering ride to Singaraja. No police, no paperwork, no problem! Crazy.

Finally into Singaraja, actually Lovina, where we arrived at Nicks Homestay, a lovely beachfront place, where we promplty relaxed had our first beer in Bali and watched locals net fish for an hour with out catching anything. Along drive back more tahu-tek and a great nights sleep. Ahh

Monday Motorbike Mayhem!!!!

Who cares what day it is:Woke again to more of the same: roosters, praying, barking, tahu,kofi, & tea. I also had to pee really bad! But Dwi had a suprise for us, he had rented a motorbike for Matt to use and would let me use his. Sweet. We were planning on riding them all over Bali for the week BUT Matt kinda screwed that one up. As soon as he got on the bike he had a little incident with a wall. The nieghbors and families ran out to inspect the commotion. Looks of dissaprroval and worry were all around as Dwi told him to take a few trips around the block before making the long haul. He got a hang of it and we soon followed Dwi to the the gas station and book store for a map. Waitng in line Matt had some "tecchnical difficulties" and Dwi said to him "Be-Very- Careful-Matt". Gas is dirt cheap here by the way. Parkimg on the street to avoid the parking charges, which loom everywhere, we purchased the map and choose our path. Ulu Watu then Tanoh Lot.

Dwi left us hesitantly and off we went throught the madness of Denpasar. Dwi even showed us the less crowded way which was still chaos. Cars, Trucks, Buses, People, Bikes, Chaos! The ride to Ulu Watu was beautiful: City , Country , Hills, Forest, we saw it all. Of course more burning trash, ladies selling things, old men digging in fields, families of four on 1 motorbike, trucks pumping exausht into our faces. After about an hour or two of that we arrived at Ulu Watu temple. An old man quickly tells us to park our bikes and pay him to show us around. "NO, lets go to the surf spot first". He replies "There are cops waiting for money". "Ok", i say thinking yeah right. Sure enough as we turned around and went down the road two Polisi were waitng for our money, i mean us. "Lisence", he asks. I pull out my drivers liscence trying not to let him see my cash. "No International Drivers Liscence ?" NO but i have a US one" "ohhhhhhh" He replies. "I MAY have to give you a ticket, $ 1,000,000 ". "Naaw you dont" I say smiling. "How much" was his relpy. "$10,000" was my awnser. "$200,000" was his. "I only have this much" i say reaching into my pocket for the small bills. "How 'bout there" he says pointing to my wallet. Shit. "You name the price". "$20,000 ?" "$150,000". "Dude ive only got $100,000 and i need it for food and gas". Again $100,000. "How bout forty?". "Fifty and its okay" he says. I hand him forty but he motions for the extra ten. These guys dont give change. "I like your hair so i give you good deal". "Thanks, you've got a good racket goning here", i say with a smile. He just smiles and nods.He knows it. Matt ends up paying $60,000 to his guy, who wasnt as nice. They stop every poor sucker on that road, mostly surfers,to Ulu Watu and probably make a damn good living doing it. IDL or not im sure most people pay.



Finaly we make it to the cliffs. Park the bikes, get harrased adn desecen to Bali's "North Shore". Shops are everywhere, we post up in one with a awesome view and enjoy the view while sucking down Papaya & Banana smoothies. Double overhead and neverendign waves. Perfect. After an hour we leave but are again accousted and this time i actually decide to buy something, a Ulu Watu shirt for my buddy Zack but i end up keeping it for myself (Sorry Dude). Back up, pay for parking and were off, to Tanah Lot. Up and down hills, through more villages and city, rice paddies and open roads we end up at Tanah Lot.

Pay more money for entry and a six fingered man makes us park our bikes. More madness, people & shops. They practically (read - do) force you through shoppingareas to get to the main destinations at all of these palces. We decend to swarmsof people around an beautiful temple situated on an island slighty offshore. Very nice, except that everyone else had the same idea we did. To visit Tanah Lot. We sat watching the swarms, wondering whether or not the people who built this massive and beautiful temple would think of its current tourist exploitation. Whatever.
Back through the swarms we bought some weird coconut balls similar to mochi wrapped in banana leaf. MMMM. Followed up with some corn on the cob smothered in sambal. Paid more cash to Six Finger and we somehow made it back to Dwi's house. But thats another tale in itslef. In other words we got lost right at the end, Matt had another incident, and we asked directions at least 6 times. After countless wrong turns and dirt roads we made it home to some great dinner followed by some really bad dreams.




ALllriggghhtt.. im soooo far behind on this thing , i mean im in freaking ,Bandung, Java rigth now sweating my ass off in a shitty internet cafe. ive been here for 2 1/2 hours already. Im done for today !! Ill be in Sinagapore in Two days . Soo much to write soo little time. Thanks for reading ya'll- Z

AHHHH .

Sorry for the lack of everything . Time has been hectic and finding a decent internet connection is a challenge. Im goning to sit down pretty soon for like three hours and update this madness!!!! Im currently in Badung heading to Jakarata tomorrow and then to singapore to meet my cousin Jessicas boyfreind peter. Peace out all ! Z

Keep em coming (Updated

Where does one start when there’s so much too say? How to arrange it ? Chronological, emphatic, spatial ? Who knows? But ill stick with the pattern. Oh yeah, Big Ups to all the friends, family and students who are actually keeping in touch!! I really enjoy the emails!

Day 15: Arise to fried tofu and tempeh with toast & sweet tea. Yum. (gluttony has always s been my favorite sin !) Elvira called to make sure all was well and to get me to fix their computer. So got the family online and signed up for an Yahoo! email Account. God I hate Dial-up. Needing a day of fun and sun all 7 of us piled into the car and headed to Kuta. (read OZ’s Tijuana ) Beep! Beep! Kuta beach is long with white sand small/midsize shore break and brown/blue water with swarms of people. We posted up right in front of the little police station and next to one of the countless vendors selling beer and boards. Good combo. But Im on detox.
Matt, the boys (Rizky, Kenny, & Machell) and I frolicked in the waves for hours. When we returned to the sand, Dwi surprised us with a excellent lunch. Rice (Nasi) with tempeh and mixed veggies and sambal. Dessert was a Banana tamale. Washed down with a Pocari Sweat. Mmmmm. Mellowed out and let the food digest, until I saw the boys bust out the ball. Ran on down and proceeded to get clobbered by Marchel and Rizky in a few game of football (Soccer for you Americans). Kept getting sidetracked by all the beautiful girls running around half naked & topless, especially some French girl taking model shots with her boyfriend. (Don’t worry Naomi) Matt’s white ass decide to get sun block, so we meandered by ourselves up on of the many alleys all selling the same crap. No further that 2 stores in we met some “friends” who wanted to sell me some sunglasses, “350 rupiah” Hell yeah I thought. Changed some money in a clothing store, grabbed some sunblock forn Circle K and went back. “350,000” ….. “ohhhhh, Yeah right, ill give you 50,000”. Bargaining ensued and I walked out with some knockoff Dragon sunglasses for 100,000. Could’ve got them for 1,000 but oh well, learned form that experience. Back to the Beach, right in from of the police station some one says, “Weed, Marijuana” I just look and laugh. Como se dice “Set up”. More swimming, football, and sun. Matts turn to bargain. He ends getting some fake Rusty shorts for 60,000. Minutes later Dwi gets 5 pairs for 100,000. Local price. Tourist price. Pineapples carved for 20,000and mixed fruit for 4,000. Yum. The Sun was setting as we decided to go eat.
To the Mall !!! Same as any other mall except you can bargain. Pizza Hut was Dwi's choice, with all the other tourists, namely the extra large Americans. Two personal veggies and a Large (read – small/medium) Supreme. Topped off with Avocado shakes and Coca-Colas. All for 180,000. Crazy drive back to the mellow patio with good conversation form Dwi and Ingga. Matt passed out early as usual…..

Day 16: The Drive.
I woke at 5:30 and layed in bed for 2 hours listening to prayer, roosters, horns, scooter, and Balianese Gamelon. This time we had coffee ginseng and as usual way too much food. Left for Besakih and Kitiamani around 10:00. Stopped at some Veggie restaurant to get lunch because apparently there is no veggie food by the temple (it was true). Off to Besakhi the largest and oldest Hindu Pura in Bali. “Chocolate!” screams Kenny (Gordo) from the front seat asking for chocolate bread. Too funny! An hour and a half later through cities, villages and forest we arrive. Put on sarongs and sashes which are mandatory for entering temples, pay for entry and parking, and were off. The sign at every temple proclaim that menstruating women cant enter and that you must wear proper dress, must come only to pray etc. but I think many do otherwise. Gunug Anung, the largest mountain is covered in mist looms in the background while huge towers of Shiva, Brahma, and Vishnu. A kilometer walk past shops and food carts we arrive ..........lunch break ......... (Back from a Three Day lunch break) ..Besakih.. Beautiful is the the first word that comes to mind. The family decides to stay and get some lunch while our guide shows us around. We ascend the many steps to the main level of the seven. Next we eneter the tourist praying area. Enter, sit, flowers: white in hair , purple in left ear, ink in right ear. A very short meditation then the Brahmin (woman) came to sprinkle holy water in our hands and heads. We drink whats in our hands and she palces rice against our foreheads. This definelty explains why i see so many people with rice on the heads! Of course after that we give the suggested (mandatory ) donation. Further up we caught a killer view and took some photos.
Back down we were bugged by little kids and old ladies to buy more coke,water etc. When we finally made it to the bottom Dwi was awaiting us with jackfruits & peanut chili sauce . Kick ass !

Back in the car and off we go, through little villages and beautiful mountian rainforest. Temples everywhere, people burning trash everywhere (worst smell ever, although sometimes it has the faint odor of ganja). We stop at a hillseide overlook to eat the veggie food purchased earlier. Spicy! A killer view of Lake Batur and the the volcano that sits beside it. Finishing lunch Matt and I watchded in horror as the family threw their trasgh down the hillside. Matt, setting the example stepped into to grab it all and put it in a bag.
Noble, but i think i watched them dump it out the side of the car later! Down the hill to the lakeside town of Kedishata (?). The plan was to take a little boat out to a small village across the lake but were swarmed with people hawking goods. As soon as we pulled in the parking lot, hands reached in, grabbing, while their owners yelled "massage, massage". At least ten peple were around the car all selling something "Beer, Braclets, Good luck, Buy, Cheap".Any open window was fair game for them. Laughing both scared and amused we decied to go to the nearby hot springs instead.

"Free or Pay ?", Dwi asks. "Free", of course. Acoussted upon exit from the car again we walk down a narrow path to the side of the lake where at least 25 people halfnaked were washing bathing and frolicking in the litte hot stream coming form the side of the shore. Once again we leave. To the pay hot springs! This time it was a tourist paradise, 5$ for two huge hot springs and one cool pool. Filled with just that, tourists. Paying the Tourist price include a free welcome drink, which is always shitty orange juice. After an hour a swarm of locals came in with three very young girls who kept pointing and staring at me. I was quite emmbarrased.

After 2 hours of bliss we pile back into the Izuzu Prather and head back up the hill to Denpasar. Two hours later I awake in an alley with a street cart selling "tahu tek".
Tek beacuse the tahu is cut with scissors and makes a tek-tek-tek noise. Cute. That shit was the Bomb! Sooo good with some special juice (Coconut Flavor) was an excellent way to end one of the best days in Bali.

Opps almost forgot Solaks, this really good fruit that splits like cloves of garlic and tastes really good. More political discussion, while the boys play there never ending roleplaying game "Sarabak". Good Night!