Siam Defeated

Tuk-Tuk? Moto? I'll be hearing these words long after I leave Asia. I wipe the sleep from my eyes and stare at the stains on the wall. "We gotta get the fuck outta here" is my first waking thought. Matt rises soon after, probably thinking the same thing. Showers are cold and refreshing compared with the stale moist air that permeates our dank room. Off we go up the street and around the corner to a much cleaner room for the same price. Smart move on Matt's part. What to do, what to do ? Tangent: Since Matt's been in Asia he's been teaching English, but most importantly working for the ILO at the U.N in Bangkok. His particular project was to take an Australians field notes and turn them from abstract rants into a tangible coherent pamphlet/reader. The project dealt with organic farms in Siem Riep to supply the booming hotel industry . A fascinating project that tried to create sustainable agriculture in a town that's industry is dependent on outside agriculture. Putting the people back in power. We won't mention the the Australian ran off with the Cambodian dudes wife though..... End Tangent: Anyways, so we decide it would be cool to see this farm. After a shitty breakfast and the usual dialogue with the street kids we tried to find the Department of Agriculture to see if they could shed some light on this project. A few departments later (Dept of Cults & Religion) we found it and they led us to the Hurredo office. Unfortunately the head guy was busy getting funding but agreed to meet us around 5:00. Its 11:00 now. Bikes!!! We quickly rented bikes and booked it to the temples.

Ahh to be back on a bicycle, a Japaneses single speed that most Japaneses girls would call a Mama-Chan. Granted it was built for a Japanese woman but it got the job done. We took the long way by accident and entered the park without getting our passes. As we road up the main entrance of Angkor Wat we, of course, were asked for our passes which we didn't have. Back to the main gate and $40 later we parked our bikes, fended off the children and ascended the main steps to one of my favorite places in the world.

Nothing can prepare one for the experience of stepping into ruins a thousand years old and made in a country that in recent times had destroyed itself through civil war. The craftsman ship, time and collective energy put into such a magical place is astounding. Each piece carefully carved and chiseled without the aide our modern technologies. We passed the endless groups of Korean and Japanese package tourists and went straight to the top to make merit. Contemplation and meditation were in order for such a powerful place. Of course while it was heavenly it was hot as hell, my magical dew rag couldn't even keep the heat and humidity from the blistering sun. As we were descending i couldn't help but notice something lame and humorous as well( See picture, not up yet! ) . People can be extremely stupid and disrespectful. Descending the temple is an ordeal, more so then going the ascent, because you can see the ground 15 meters below. Steep would be an understatement. Back to the roads through gates and trees is bliss on a bicycle, the moving air and shade making the extreme heat somewhat bearable. We went to the Bayon temple next and made more merit before heading back to the town for our meeting with Hurredo. The Bayon is actually one of the larger complexes in Angkor surrounded by other temples 5 gates and waterways, although most people see it as a cool temple "at " Angkor Wat. Amazing.

The ride back was blissful, probably 30 km overall as we rolled up to Hurredo. The man was semi polite, constantly jibing me about my hair in comparison to types of lettuce and also questioning my gender. He wasn't as helpful as we planned but did enlighten us as to the status of the project: funding for the initial project was done but they were finding new resources and hopefully on their way to sustainability. Good deal. A short ride to drop off the bikes we made a detour at the rooftop bar. Beer Lao. The best beer in Southeast Asia. Ordered one and meet the owner, who happened to be American. He enlightened us as to his situation and where we could find the green. "Try one of the happy pizza places, all the guys got it." Check and Check. Another cold shower and we made our way to the little of row of happy pizza shops eventually stopping at Ecstatic Pizza because of its extremely chic design and setting. Tangent: Siem Reap has changed dramatically since my last visit, from no ATMs (5 in all of Cambodia) and relatively few fancy hotels and and street kids. Now there are at least 5 ATMSs in Siem Riep alone, countless hotels and the street kids don't even bother with games most of the time.

We settled down and order a pizza; not a happy pizza, we want the happy on the side. No problem. Pizza was delicious combined with a Beer Lao. We got our check and had to wait for the happy side. Bammer, straight bammer. Seeds, stems, but not compressed and relatively green. Off to the Rootop Bar where the owner Scott assured us we could enjoy ourselves any way we liked. He also assured us it was a happening spot (Not). It was still early as we climbed the four flight of stairs to the excellent outdoor lounge. Drinks and spliffs help to fend off the painted ladies and Scott's horrible musical taste (people really still listen to Creed??) while the bartenders and waitresses got to know us quite well over the next few days. One named Pali even kinda had a thing for Matt. Times moves quickly and 2:00AM came very quick that night, and our hopes of catching the sunrise were fading further and further from view. We'll see what happens tomorrow.

Tomorrow. Groggily we wake and find our way to coffee and a decent meal. We ended up having more dialogue, but these kids ended up being really cool so we took a few out for breakfast. Good deed for the day I guess. We decide to assault a tuk-tuk driver to take us around, and when we did he wasn't prepared. Normally they assault you, constantly in fact. He offered to take us around for the day at a decent rate. Off we went, a brief stop at Angkor Wat and we went to Ta Prhom, the jungle temple. Sadly, if you've seen Tomb Raider you've seen this temple. The ruins have been overtaken by massive trees, while workers have been gradually fixing the imminent destruction.

"Hey are you from Guadalajara?"

"Uhhhh.. No Why?"

Your shirt stupid. Ccause your shirt says Guadalajara" Oh yeah. This is where we meet one of the stranger groups traveling together. About 5 students, all studying in Bangkok. The one who called out my shirt was Amie, a Laotian girl from Hawaii via Delaware, the other was a Mexican girl actually from Guadalajara, who kinda got mad when i didn't know the song "Guadalajara, Guadalajara". The crew was completed by two guys from Sweden and this really mean German girl. They all seemed to hate each other. We roamed around for a while and then split paths as we headed back to the murals at Angkor Wat, had to check out the many levels of hell. At the top we meet another American from San Diego who looked like my moms friend Alan and had the same personality. Anytime you meet another American while traveling there is a mutual hanging of heads in shame. The "I didn't vote for the guy!" mentality. As I'm sure you are all aware while our stuff, be it cultural or material, is wanted our politics and presence are not. You can see any other type of flag hanging proudly but it's far and few between when you see the presence of old glory. Damn tangents. After Angkor we were attacked as usual and saw the same unhappy crew from before, their tuk-tuk driver was nowhere to be found so we let one come with us and assumed that would be the last of the unhappy campers.

The top of sunset hill in the park is the best place to be for people watching, not so much for the sunset. The hazy sky prevents a real show and just about every tourist in the Siem Reip area flocks here around sundown. Nonetheless we had the opportunity to chill with some monks and watch the masses. Back down and into town after showers we grabbed some Pizza and this awesome potato dip for substance. Bar St. Once again, this is a small area that strictly caters to tourists and their habits or venues for their habits. Eating, drinking and overall consumption. "Jesse" we hear from a rooftop, turns out is was Amie and the crew. We walk up assuming they are all cheerful and happy after a stunning day at Angkor. Nope. Amie is the only happy one while the rest are all arguing over the bill. The Mexican girl perks up when I mention her impending date with a Brazilian but that was the high point. For some reason we actually decided to have a drink with them hoping they would perk up. It didn't as we headed over to Angkor What? and had a drink while the rest their crew looked extremely bored, angry etc. One beer down and Matt and I had enough of the alcohol, we wanted to catch the sunrise anyways. Back to the rooftop for a nightcap and to bed for the sunrise in the morning.

Sunrise. Came quicker than expected and we were off. Biking passed countless other locals on their own bikes heading to work made me wonder why more people don't do this everyday back home. Oh yeah, they have cars. We were headed into the park when I suddenly remember I forgot my pass, hoping they wouldn't ask me I tried to walk up the steps, but no dice. Oh well. I hung around until the colors left and hopped a moto back to town for the pass. All was well as I meet Matt for breakfast and we rolled out for our leisurely bike ride through the park. More temples and ruins and tourists and kids as we spent most of the day cruising through random side roads and trails. "Gonna go home and sleep after this" At least that was the idea. After we returned and napped.

There was advertising all over town for a Children's Concert every Saturday @ 7:15 having our bikes and time to kill we decided to take it easy and listen to some Bach. As we arrived in the coldest most refreshing room in Siem Reip, we noticed not a Children's Orchestra but a old Man with a Cello. Children's Concert? Not really, maybe a few songs cut short with him ranting about his hospital. Really an excellent and informative adventure but not a concert. Hes been in Cambodia as a doctor since before Pol Pot came to power and is doing a righteous thing providing free health care to the children of Cambodia. All the time asking for blood or money. Hes set up 4 hospitals in Camboida since 1992. Check him out for more info Beatocello.com. As we exited Matt and I both looked at each other and said "Lets take it easy tonight i don't feel like being sociable" a Belgium girl named Elle walks up and asks "you boys going for a drink or food". Rather than deny we oblige with this insane Marketing Psychologist from Belgium and become increasingly uncomfortable as the night rolls on. Luckily our depression gang actually saves the day and gives us a fleeting moment from the non-stop Elle. The night ends later than we expected.

Next Day: we had to get our shit together to leave Siem Reap. Visa? Bus? Thailand? Laos? We made the rounds of travel agencies and all lead us to the conclusion that a visa was needed prior to the border and that we could go north into Laos from Cambodia with little or no problem. Sweet. We made one day visa arrangements that would return our passports by the next evening for fairly cheap. Back to Bar street for a mellow meal and mildentertainment minus the depression gang. An old Australian decide to become our friend and gave us more drunken conversation than either of us would have liked. Luckily Primavera saved the day. She ended up sitting with us and telling her story. A Mexican girl Living in Australia, who was on her way back to Bangkok earlier that day but didn't have a visa, in other words she had to do the road to hell twice in one day. She ended up requesting salsa music and making both Matt and myself look like asses on the dance floor. Well, we probably still looked better then the fat guy with the bucket dancing by himself. Time got the best of us as we walked home around 3AM. Longer day then expected.

With a day to kill and no temple pass the following morning found us rolling to the War Museum and Land Mine Museum for a dose of depression and forced entertainment. The War museum was enlightening to say the least, our guide knew the history well and all the interesting information regarding the countless discarded war machines and weapons. He made us hold most of them and be Rambo, but i wasn't touching the gun he said the Khmer would throw babies into the air and impale them on. This was the overall highlight of the day because the Land Mine Museum was in the middle of nowhere and had no real revealing information. Our last stop was the Children's Hospital to donate blood. I hate needles but felt bad having all this extra blood when the children are in dire need.

Hopefully our passports are ready!!! We do the obligatory shower and food and make our way back to the lady. She gives us a look of disdain as soon as we enter the room. "Do you have our visa's"? ...... "Umm.... well not today, tomorrow, traffic to Phnom Phen" Excuses flow and were fucked and a tad irritated. Even if we wanted to leave we couldn't because she had our passportts. One more day. Having finished off our refreshment and most of the entertaining things to do in town that don't cost alot of money we went back to the happy strip. Our friend Scott just happened to be in the same restaurant with the same idea. Works out good when you know someone. We drank some beers with him and got what has been the best ganja I've had in Southeast Asia. We grabbed some food and headed back to the Roof Top bar for yet another night of bad music. We heard the saddest story ever form one of the waitresses,in short: her ex-boyfriend, a Danish 20year old, impregnated her and his parents came and took him back home, leaving her with his bastard child. Talk about a buzz kill, but shes strong and she'll get through.

Our last day we found a pool, it was green but it was a place to chill. Ants had been bothering Matt the whole time at the pool but not really bothering me. As we went to leave Matt started to really freak out. They were everywhere. His whole stomach became enveloped in big red mounds. He figured out the source was his backpack, and the cookies that lie in it. Everywhere, it was like the whole mound was in his bag. The funny thing is, is that the only reason we had the cookies was to give them to kids when the asked us for money or to buy something, most were stoked other just wanted money. Sometimes even the best intentions can have negative consequences, so says Matt and so ends the day, as we ride back to pick up our passports. Hopefully that is.

She gives us the same look as last time as we walk in..... But quickly smiles and hands them to us. Whew, relief and happiness overcome us as we begin asking about ticket to get the hell out of Siem Riep. She isn't as much help as we hoped so we do it ourselves. We arrange a Tuk-Tuk driver to take us to the bus station and return to the Roof Top for our real last night in Siem Riep. The morning arrives not quick enough as we head to the bus station at 7:00AM. .................- Ive already said too much ... Peace and Love- Z